October–November, or March before the rains commit
This week
Late summer is wet and loud. The lake at 6am is the city being itself. Cross the street like a local: slow, steady, do not freeze. Train Street is a bar with a gimmick; skip it.
Do not dash. Do not freeze. Step out slowly and hold a line. Motorbikes will flow around a predictable body. Headphones off. This is the one skill the city will not do for you.
If there is a chair with a back, you are overpaying
The low plastic stool is the restaurant. Point, sit, eat, pay cash. A wet wipe will appear. You do not need the app. You do need small bills.
Train Street is not Hanoi
It is a narrow track with folding chairs and a cover charge energy. Locals do not drink there. Walk Long Biên instead, then go back to a stool that was not placed for your camera.