Vietnam

Hanoi

Lake loops, low stools, wires like a second sky

On foot
4/5
They speak
Vietnamese

Best window

October–November, or March before the rains commit

This week

Late summer is wet and loud. The lake at 6am is the city being itself. Cross the street like a local: slow, steady, do not freeze. Train Street is a bar with a gimmick; skip it.

City map

City map

Open the map

Day paths

How it actually works

  • The street is a river; you are a boat

    Do not dash. Do not freeze. Step out slowly and hold a line. Motorbikes will flow around a predictable body. Headphones off. This is the one skill the city will not do for you.

  • If there is a chair with a back, you are overpaying

    The low plastic stool is the restaurant. Point, sit, eat, pay cash. A wet wipe will appear. You do not need the app. You do need small bills.

  • Train Street is not Hanoi

    It is a narrow track with folding chairs and a cover charge energy. Locals do not drink there. Walk Long Biên instead, then go back to a stool that was not placed for your camera.

Hidden gems

All gems

Walk · Long Biên

Long Biên bridge at walking pace

A working railway bridge over the Red River. Train Street is a café. This is the actual iron.

Local note. Late afternoon. Stay on the pedestrian path. Do not play with the tracks.

Hours: Daylight

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Food · Old Quarter

A bia hơi corner after 5

Fresh beer in a plastic mug, peanuts, a stool in the street. The civic evening.

Local note. If the mug is branded for tourists, keep walking one block.

Hours: From 16:00

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Landmark · Đống Đa

Temple of Literature, side courtyards

Vietnam’s first university. The turtles and stelae are the visit; the selfie garden is not.

Local note. Opening hour. Skip the costume rental.

Hours: Usually 8:00–17:00

See on the map

Hidden · Old Quarter

A hidden café in a tube house

Hanoi houses go back, not up. Walk through a dark corridor and you are in a courtyard.

Local note. Ask for cà phê sữa đá. Stay for the rain.

Hours: Most 8:00–18:00

See on the map

In their words

Phrasebook
  • Xin chào

    sin chow

    Hello

  • Cảm ơn

    kahm un

    Thank you

  • Xin lỗi

    sin loy

    Excuse me

  • Bao nhiêu?

    bow nyew

    How much is this?

  • Ngon quá

    ngon wah

    This is delicious

  • Ở đâu?

    uh doh

    Where is…?

  • Cho tôi nước

    chaw toy nook

    Water, please

  • Tính tiền

    ting tee-en

    The bill, please

  • Một, hai, vô

    moh hai vaw

    Cheers

  • Giúp tôi với

    zoop toy vuh

    Can you help me?