Full day · 10 hours · 7 stops
Before the groups
Campo when the market is for cooks, the Ghetto without the audio guides, Testaccio for lunch, the Aventine keyhole, Trastevere after the tripods leave.
Walked 0 of 7
Start walking7:15 · 50 min · Walk
Campo de’ Fiori, stall side
Centro
The square is a nightclub after 21:00 and a souvenir stall after 10. Between 7 and 8:30 it is a market. Buy fruit. Do not photograph the statue as if you discovered it.
See on the map8:20 · 70 min · Walk
Ghetto lanes to Portico d’Ottavia
Ghetto
Walk Via del Portico d’Ottavia while the deep-fried artichoke places are still closed. The ruins are in the street. That is the point. Skip the tour groups forming at the Teatro.
See on the map10:00 · 80 min · Food
Mercato di Testaccio
Testaccio
A working market under a roof, not a food hall with neon. Trapizzino if you must queue; otherwise a stall that still sells tripe. Sit on the curb if the stools are gone.
See on the map12:30 · 40 min · Hidden
Aventine orange garden
Aventine
Giardino degli Aranci. The view is the one Romans actually use. Stay twenty minutes. The keyhole at the priory is twenty metres further if you need the postcard.
See on the map13:15 · 20 min · Landmark
Knights of Malta keyhole
Aventine
Look through, see the dome framed by hedges, leave. It is a ten-second trick, not a pilgrimage. If the line is a wedding, skip it.
See on the map14:00 · 60 min · Pause
Shade on Via della Lungaretta
Trastevere
Churches are cool. Santa Maria in Trastevere if you can stand the gold; otherwise a side street and a granita. Do not start dinner at 18:00.
See on the map20:30 · 100 min · Food
A trattoria with paper menus
Trastevere
If the waiter is on the street with laminated photos, keep walking. Cacio e pepe or carbonara, not both. House wine. The alley behind Piazza de’ Renzi is quieter than the piazza.
See on the map